Water is an excellent fuel and since more than a century it is used as steam for running the rail. Still now water vapor are used for carrying out many physical works. Burning of fuel such as gasoline and diesel is an exothermic reaction and it produces lots of heat and other gases in combustion chambers. This heat is a form of energy and is utilized by the engine and in consequence the engine performs the work.
However, in addition to the conventional fuel, water can also be used as fuel for our car. The technology of converting water into a valuable fuel is well established and has given the desirable results to the many people across the globe. In this process, water is converted to two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. The process is known as electrolysis and here a high voltage is passed into the water and the water molecules dissociates into the constituents gases and these gases are taken away to the combustion chambers, where these gases burnt along with petrol or diesel and thus help us in reducing the consumption of conventional fuel.
Thus water if converted into the basic hydrogen and oxygen, acts as fuel for our car. Out of these two constituents, hydrogen acts as fuel for the car and oxygen helps in burning the fuel inside the combustion chamber and therefore both of its constituents are either act as fuel or help fuel in providing energy to the car. So, for running your car on water, water acts as a cost effective alternate fuel, however a percentage of this fuel along with the conventional fuel can only be used for getting optimum performance from the vehicle.
So, in conclusion water after electrolysis can act as an alternate fuel. It can be used along with other conventional fuels such as petrol or diesel, and it has a potential of gas bill saving up to the tune of 60 percent. For the whole conversion only a small amount of approximate $100 is required. No engine modification is required for converting your diesel-based or gas-based car to the water based, however a small electrolyzing equipment and additional connecting is required for smooth operation and running of your car on water.
Help answer the question about car engine modification
How likely is that a car engine fails/break?
Under regular maintinance and regular driver (common person) how often does an engine fail?
My friend and I were talking about cars, and we were comparing two cars and supposedly one of those cars have an engine that is suppose to be very good, however if it reliability is the main concern, for the whole car how often do engines fail?
My point was, since these days there are only a very few engines around and companies just make different cars of different brands out of the same few engines (with small modifications) is it really feasible to buy a car based on "good engine" rather than "quality electrics" (which I am aware fail quite often) or just general build quality?
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There are variety of ways to save gas, such as by running your car on water or getting coupons.
Run your car on water and save environment as well as money.
It's not particularly worth it, but I would recommend a carburetted rotary engine. You could get good performance out of it, with very little wiring effort, and they're incredibly compact (probably about the size of the motor you would be removing from the ATV)
Honda Civics
No. 50km over the speed limit on Ontario streets deems you to be street racing. once caught you no long own your vehicle. That is what the track is for. Have fun.
A high performance battery will work as the engine will only draw what it needs, but it isn't necessary. Save a few bucks and just get a stock-type replacement. Skip the cheap Wal-Mart types, spring for a Die Hard or something that has a warrenty of at least 36 months.
There were many styling accessories available for the Lanos in Korea and Poland (the car was built in both countries, so was popular in both). You may be able to source parts there.
The Lanos was never popular enough (and definitely not popular enough with the type of person that would want to modify it) in the UK for any company to invest in producing parts for it.
Air intake, exhaust system, performance tires, lowering springs, turbo, supercharge, etc etc.
a turbo is a compressor driven off exhaust gases. the compressor and bellhousing is the part that changes.
Age:2001
Name:chevy
Car:malibu
Engine Size:i;m a girl i don't know
Specs:???
Modifications:???
Age of car:I told you its a 2001
Other: my car is awsome
1. You should follow the rule of highest gear at lowest speed.
2. Calculate the mileage using the calculator
http://hestecrv.com/car.php
and get a fuel efficient car.
3. Do not brake ( let there be accident …lol).
4. Feel you are 80 year old when accelerating.
dont forget about all the other things that come with 149,000 miles……..loose front end parts, cooling system, tires, brakes, the list goes on and on. A new engine and transmission will not make the car anywhere near new. I just glanced quickly but motors with around 65K on them are going for around $2500 and reman trannys are going for about $3000. + install easily $1500, so your looking at $7000 bucks and you still have a body with 149K and an engine with 65K…..I think you should re-think everything. Good luck!
As it's been said the Crown Victoria only contains a mildly modified Mustang engine. I forget exactly whats different but I'm thinking the big thing is an oil cooler (not that big of deal). Of course the police also have the new chargers, some departments have camaros, etc. Heck the Japanese police apparently have Nissan Skylines and the Italian police have Lamborghinis. I also have seen that one state is currently adopting some new mustangs.
Either way, cops aren't that fast. If you really wanted to get away a decently modified car would blow them away, but they still would probably nab your license plate and police helicopters aren't easy to lose. If you've watched cop shows on TV you should know that their main advantages aren't how fast their cars are, what matters most of the time when going after a dangerous criminal is spike strips.
TRY TO GOOGLE IT UP I AM SURE YOU WOULD COME UP WITH SOMETHING::
It depends what stage NOS you want to use. Go to mechanics shop, they can get you a real go ideal what you will need to do. Otherwise you can blow the system.
Sounds about right. A bad alternator can do weird things. That is just an example of one of them.
Many North American trucks (lorries) and motorcars already share the same gasoline engines. The 409 cubic engine praised by the Beach Boys back in the 60's ("She's real fine, my four-oh-nine") found it's way to many medium sized trucks and buses.
ok first I'll put it on a computer and check it. its usually free at a autozone or Advance it possibly could be one of 3 things coolent Temp sensor, Air temp sensor, and I believe the EGR valve can do that too. not sure but check with the computer it should tell you the basics. lol
My Eclipse did that after the guy replaced the engine. turn out I had like 4 sensors and a fuel charcoal canister ventilation valve. sucks but the car runs so much better
If your car does not have the remote switch to operate, then you need the switch, and have to mount it, power it, and run wire to the new/replacement mirror, if it fits. The switch needs up/down and left/right functions – the car should come with it; you leave us needing information, therefore no answer yet? So, remove the mirror and bolt up the new one, and just plug in the harness.
In short – if it didn't leave the factory with it – it's a modification (ie. a loophole for them to get out of paying you)
ANY engine mods, ANY bodywork mods, ANY window tints, ANY wheel upgrades (or downgrades), fitting interior parts – eg. sports seats, stereo, speakers, flashy lights.
I've found that so long as the parts won't cost THEM anything to replace (like £2G for custom alloys), it barely affects the price.
keith c is exactly right, the "CAMMER" as it was known was a 427 SOHC (single overhead cam) that was made for a select few racers and put in very few cars from the factory for homoligation purposes. it was NOT underrated for insurance and was well over 600hp in the late 1960's -and NO this is NOT the 429 "BOSS" which is a hemi with OHV !
1) Cheapest stuff first.
Better air filter (K&N), PCV valve, new plug wires (make sure they don't touch each other)
Spark plugs. Use a Sharpie pen and draw a line on the plugs ceramic to show you where the curved electrode attaches to the plug.
Install them with the line you made on the plug pointing UP, so the electrode doesn't interfere with you getting the full spark to the piston. Tighten them until they are just snug, then just twist them until the line is up. The washer on the plug will allow you to do this. (Old hot rodder trick)
Of course, a new distributor cap and rotor is needed too.
Get some carbureator cleaning spray. Start the engine and while the engine is running, spray your vacuum lines to make sure none of them are leaking. (the engine will increase RPM if you have any leaks)
Replace any leaking vacuum lines with NEW rubber lines.
This may sound trivial, but an engine will not perform when it has vacuum leaks.
Use the rest of the spray to clean your carbureator or throttle body. Be careful. Some throttle bodies shouldn't be cleaned with spray. It is better to get come cleaner that goes into your gas tank instead.
If I knew what car you owned, I would suggest to you how many degrees of advance you can turn the distributor for better bottom end. Usually, 12-14 degrees is Ok and it is free horsepower out of the hole. You will need a timing light and then you would look on your crankshaft for the timing pointer and the 10-12 degree marks on your harmonic balancer on your crank.
Just some simple, cheap tricks to get you started. Good luck!
Rims would be the main thing. A good set of rims will transorm a car's appearance. check out tirerack.com. I provided the link so you can see what rims are available for your car and what they will look like on your car. This is a very reliable and safe website.
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Accord+Coupe&autoYear=2009&autoModClar=EX+4cyl
I would also check out http://www.wooddashexperts.com for various interior and exterior accents.
Good lucj
try juiced or NFS..
1. No, there's no website for this. You can google each part you want, and you can see how much horsepower they advertise it will make.
2. What they advertise, and what you will actually get, will be two entirely different things.
3. Horsepower is entirely irrelevant anyway, since what you want is torque. HP is just a number made from multiplying torque by rpm and dividing by 5252. You could just as easily divide it by 5, and call it Monkeypower. It's good for bragging, but is a useless and meaningless term.
4. Sure, you can make any car fast. With a whole ton of money. And in the end, you'll still have a Dodge Stratus, so fast or not, you'll get no respect.
Should be fine as the 6.0L is still an LS1 variant. Uses same mounts for sure.
You may get away without getting the 5.7L PCM reflashed, but do it to CYA…
For the most part yes. It is rare that upgrades have anything to do with which transmission you have. The only exception would be some Cold Air Intakes. Sometimes the intake companies will have one model for the manual transmission and another for the automatic transmission, since the intake tube will pass right by the transmission and the manual and auto transmissions have slightly different shapes.
As far as a turbo, exhaust, etc etc, there is no differentiation.
sounds like te engine is to small for a 4 speed- you wont be able to drive in 6th gear plus it prolly wont fit anyway. You didn't say what kind of car you drive. IF you can afford a speed- buy a newer car that has some power
JUST CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DMV OFFICE, THEY WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER ANY AND ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU WILL BE GETTING THE CORRECT ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Crown_Victoria_Police_Interceptor
There are usually few to no engine modifications in cop cars.
I've heard of people paying as little as 800 bucks for good running early-mid 90s CVPIs, but it's usually a couple thousand for a decent one.
Expect a Chevy Caprice to cost a good bit more, as they're much less common.
When Impalas start being retired in large numbers, I'd expect them to go for less than the Crown Victorias. (They're FAR less cool)
IT typically basically means the spark plug was firing too early, which damaged the engine. Good luck and I hope this helps
Hi, try WHICH CAR magazine. Lots of information …hope it helps
you could buy a cold air intake and just install it.
here's a site where you can buy them: http://www.americanmuscle.com/05-07-mustang-air-intakes.html
If you don't want to spend that much money then you could just buy some styling mods to install, they won't do anything, but they make the engine look nice.
Also if you really want to go all out you could install a supercharger: http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-superchargers.html
you could go single cam turbo in a honda crx….. possible to run 9's or even maybe 8's with it
The answer is probably yes – PROVIDED that :-
1. the cooking oil is ultra clean (no bits of egg etc floating around etc).
2. The cooking oil is lightweight – rapeseed oil has the lowest viscosity.
3. You remember that some engines are better than other for this sort of "experiment". Peugots, Fords and BMW's are the best apparently.
Don't forget that the original diesel engine was designed to run on peanut oil!
Lastly remember to pay custom duties on the oil part of your fuel mixture. Failure to do so will get you into incredibly deep shit.
HA – I just finished the motor work on my car after three years of modding and prepping. So I'll just pop the original motor back in and go with the mods that were done before the new motor went in.
So – my car with a factory stock motor and the hood welded shut.
1 – programmable ecm chip (computer is under the seat)
2 – cat back exhaust
3 – performance tires and lighter rims
4 – total Baer brake upgrade
5 – lowered suspension with coil overs
6 – polyurethane bushings
7 – upgraded front and rear adj. sway bars
8 – front and rear cross braces
9 – camber plates
10 – hi-po fuel pump
11 – lower final drive ratio (RWD)
12 – modified shifter
13 – close ratio gearbox
14 – lightened drive shaft
15 – strengthened frame at key points
16 – modified steering rack
17 – too many other 'tweaks' to mention
And I will take out the heavy duty cooling rad, the oil cooler and the transmission cooler.
None of what I did before the new motor really made the car that much faster – quicker, maybe. But it performed much better than the car I started with and the ride and handling were improved 100% percent over stock.
anything is possable with enough money and cutting, but it doesnt sound like something that would be easy, if the tranny bolts up perfect, then yes, wouldnt be that hard until you get to the wiring harness… I dont think I would try it, myself, i would take the motor out and rebuild it, maybe add a few bolt on power adders and call it done
Is it more HP you are looking for? or is the motor in it now bad? I'm sure popping in a 2l is possible, but if it is to gain more HP I'm not sure if it would be worth the ordeal. I would think the DOHC escort GT motor would be a good fit or maybe just a small greddy turbo would work MUCH better on the stock 1.8l. Of course this is all dependent on if the engine is bad or it is just HP you are looking for.
you will never get away with an engine swap in Cali the exhaust has to be factory.
Build your own custom car instead.
Not sure on the steering wheel. I know a lot of people change them out though.
Basically anything that deals with lights whether they are neon or HID or even adding fog lights is considered illegal in many states. Changing the color of a marker light from yellow to blue red or green will get you a ticket. If it was not factory it's illegal. Especially if you are living in NY. If it is fun, they want to give you a ticket.
Also, window tint darker than 35%.
The K&N filter and the exhaust are an excellent idea. When it comes to installing a chip, you need to be careful what you buy if you have an automatic transmission. Try to find a chip that re-programs your transmission control unit as well as your ECU. Some chips only program the ECU without reprogramming the TCU. By doing this you add more power to your crankshaft, but the transmission won't be able to handle it, as the chip didn't raise the clutch pressures. Without raising the clutch pressures, the Transmission will slip and you'll be replacing the Tranny soon down the road….
There are over 120,000 methane-powered vehicles in the USA and over 8.7 million methane-powered vehicles in the world.
Other than to film a television episode, there is no reason to perform do-it-yourself modifications to a gasoline engine. Instead just purchase one from a supplier or auto manufacturer and you will get a properly engineered and reliable engine.
Greenie is incorrect. Methane can be compressed greatly, as much as 110 times atmospheric pressure, without forming liquid. Methane has very different properties than carbon dioxide.
Greenie is also incorrect by saying more liquid (oil) molecules can fit into a container than gas (methane) molecules. Methane molecules, CH4, are much smaller than oil molecules, C8H18 and therefore occupy less volume.
Look at the two links I added below – the GA Owners Forum should be able to give you a good list of basics outside of a cold air kit and cat back exhaust.
I also threw in the site for information on the V6 family of engines you have, which also has some very useful links.
The 6 has a bit of a weak aftermarket support for it – so go to the guys who know!
I would rebuild the top half of the engine, and install a different manifold with a new carburator. Since the early 305's had soft camshafts, i would replace the camshaft along with the timing chain set too. The early 305's had teflon teeth on the camshaft gears that caused timing chain slippage. I know because thats what happened to my 1977 Chevy Impala. Please dont listen to these people on here that say not to put money into it. They dont know what they are talking about, and its none of their business. I myself own a 1993 GMC Safari, and i spent a fortune repairing that thing. I would rather be stuck with no car payment, and not have to worry about starting over dealing with another used car which i dont know the history of. Thats why i keep fixing it no matter what price it is to fix. To be honest, i wish i had a nice original car to tool around with like yours. I wish i had another red 1977 Impala again that i would keep original on the outside, and have a high performance engine under the hood. Good Luck!
why it's a KIA?